What is Oxidation and Reduction? How Air Changes Wine
During the winemaking (or vinification) process, topping up is a small but important step that helps protect the wine as it ages. After fermentation, wine is often stored in barrels or tanks, and over time, a bit of the liquid naturally evaporates. This evaporation leaves empty space—called "ullage"—in the container, which can let in air. To prevent this, winemakers regularly "top up" the barrels by adding more wine to keep them full. This simple act helps maintain the wine’s quality and flavour while it matures. It's like keeping a lid tight on something you want to preserve. But there are two other ways as well…
Oxidation
Oxidative ageing is quite different from the usual “topped-up” method used during winemaking. Normally, when wine is ageing, winemakers regularly top up the barrels to keep them full and minimise the wine’s contact with air—this helps preserve the fresh, fruity flavours and prevents spoilage. But with oxidative ageing, the winemaker intentionally allows some oxygen to interact with the wine over time. This might sound risky, but it’s done on purpose to develop complex, nutty, and savoury flavours you wouldn’t get otherwise. It’s kind of like how letting cheese or balsamic vinegar age brings out deeper character. Wines like sherry or some styles of vin jaune use this method to create something truly unique and layered.
Some Examples
Domaine De La Borde, Vin Jaune, 2015
Domaine De La Borde's 2015 Vin Jaune is a standout example of oxidative winemaking, a style where the wine is intentionally exposed to air during ageing to develop complex, nutty, and savoury flavours. Made in France’s Jura region from the Savagnin grape, this wine spends over six years ageing in barrels that aren’t topped up, allowing a thin layer of yeast called voile to form on the surface. This slow, oxygen-driven process gives Vin Jaune its signature notes of walnuts, curry spice, and dried fruit. It’s bold, unique, and a perfect introduction to how oxidation can transform a wine into something truly special.
Domaine De Rancy, Rancio Sec De Macabeu, 2011
The Domaine de Rancy Rancio Sec de Macabeu 2011 offers a rare glimpse into the winemaking traditions of southern France's Roussillon region. Crafted from the Macabeu grape, this wine reflects a centuries-old method that values time and patience over polish. Left to age in well-worn barrels under the region’s shifting temperatures, it develops its signature amber hue and savoury depth without intervention. The wine’s character leans more toward the meditative than the flashy—evoking toasted almonds, sea spray, and dried herbs. It’s a quiet, contemplative wine that rewards slow sipping and a thoughtful pairing, whether with aged Manchego or a moment of stillness.
Reduction
Reductive ageing is a unique approach in winemaking where the wine is kept away from air as much as possible during its time in the cellar—kind of like keeping wine in a bubble. This method is all about preserving the fresh, fruity, and sometimes even slightly funky characteristics of the wine by limiting its exposure to oxygen. Instead of letting the wine interact with air, which can change its flavour and texture over time, winemakers using reductive ageing aim to lock in those bright, primary aromas. It’s a more controlled, protective style of ageing that often results in wines that are crisp, vibrant, and youthful in character—even after spending time in a barrel or tank.
Some More Examples
Envínate, Benje Blanco, 2023
Envínate's Benje Blanco 2023 is a killer example of how minimalist, hands-off winemaking can still produce something full of life and energy. Grown high up on the volcanic slopes of Tenerife, this wine feels electric—like biting into just-picked citrus with a little smoky edge. What makes it stand out is how sharp and focused it stays from start to finish, with no heavy oak or overripe flavours muddying the picture. That pure, zippy character? It’s a giveaway that the winemakers took serious care to keep things tight and precise behind the scenes, favouring subtlety and clarity over flash. Even if you're new to wine, it's the kind of bottle that makes you sit up and think, “Whoa—this tastes alive.”
Danjou Banssey, Truffière Blanc, 2020
Danjou Banssey’s Truffière Blanc 2020 is a standout for how it delivers such intense purity and precision in every sip. It’s got this cool, almost electric edge to it—like biting into a just-peeled grapefruit or catching the scent of wet stones after rain. What makes it really compelling, though, is how tightly wound and expressive it feels at the same time. There’s a kind of tension in the glass, like the flavours are coiled up, just waiting to unfold with time or air. It’s a perfect example of a style where the winemaker lets the grape’s true voice come through loud and clear, without too much interference.
Its an ancient and intricate process that can lead to some wild flavours, unattainable any other way.