What’s All the Fuss About Grower Champagne?
When you think of Champagne, the big houses such as Moët, Veuve Clicquot, & Dom Pérignon might spring to mind. But there’s another side to Champagne that has been quietly gaining notoriety: Grower Champagne. Also known as Récoltant-Manipulant (RM) in French, these are small-batch, terroir-focused wines produced by the same hands that tend the vines—something that is not too common in a region famous for mass market wines.
But why is Grower Champagne suddenly gaining more and more popularity and why should you start seeking out these producers and adding them to your in your collection?
So, What actually is Grower Champagne?
Grower Champagne is made by producers who grow their own fruit and create their Champagne from beginning to end. Unlike lots of the large Champagne houses (often called Négociant-Manipulants), which buy grapes from a number of growers across the region to create the consistent "house style" of the brands that we all know, Grower Champagnes aim to reflect the distinct characteristics of a single vineyard or village. This gives them a distinct expression of the land, or terroir as those in the biz refer to it.
The best way to think of it is as the difference between something bespoke, and artisanal made and something that has been mass-produced. Like all of the growers that we work with, they are deeply connected to their vines, the soil, and the seasons, enabling them to produce wines that truly represent the unique qualities of their land.
Why choose Grower Champagne over big houses?
1. Terroir Expression
Because Grower Champagnes come from small, family-owned plots, each bottle offers a sense of place that’s hard to replicate. For example:
- Côte des Blancs: This sub-region is most famous for producing exceptional Chardonnay-based Champagnes. The chalky soils tend to give distinctive mineral notes to the wines, which are often described as citrussy & crisp. These Champagnes lean towards a pure and fresher style that you don't find so much in other Champagne regions and they also tend to have great ageing potential.
- Vallée de la Marne: Dominated by the Pinot Meunier grape, this region benefits from a combination of clay, marl, and limestone. This provides rich, fruit-forward Champagnes, often with notes of ripe stone and orchard fruits. The clay tends to give the wines a softness and elegance, that make these Champagnes super approachable in profile.
- Côte des Bar: This is the most southern area of Champagne where Pinot Noir is the king. Located pretty close to Burgundy, the Champagnes produced often have ripe & fruity profiles.The climate is a wee bit warmer here and the soil here is more Kimmeridgian clay which tends to create wines that are more generous & fruit forward than its cousins to the north.
2. Sustainability and Natural Winemaking
Many of these producers have adopted organic or biodynamic methods, reducing the chemicals used, and focusing on sustainability. Not only does this tick the eco conscious box but the resulting wines are purer and more expressive and in my humble opinion a more superior product.
3. Limited Production & Availability
With much smaller amounts produced, these Champagnes are naturally more exclusive. Once they’re gone, they’re gone. This makes each vintage even more noteworthy. For wine geeks and collectors, this rarity is part of the charm. And whilst the rarity does for sure give these Champagnes a certain amount of exclusivity, it’s not just about being harder to get your hands on. The fact that these are small, family-run growers who naturally produce less means they are rare by definition, but they are also crafting some seriously impressive wines that are the jewel in the already bejewelled Champagne crown.
Who Are the Producers to Know?
If you’re looking to see what all this Grower stuff is about, start by checking out some of my favourite producers where you will find some of the best Grower Champagnes to buy online. They all have their own style but they share a dedication to producing quality and authentic Champagnes that once you have tasted you will also see what all the fuss is about. Check out the list below for some of our favourite producers.