Clemens Busch, Marienburg Kabinett, 2022

As a young winemaker in the 70s, organic and biodynamic pioneer Clemens Busch was already questioning the use of herbicides and reducing the sulphur levels in his wines. When he and wife Rita inherited his parents’ winery and vineyards in 1984, they had the chance to put these ideas into practice. Most of their production comes from the Pündericher Marienburg, a south-west-facing hillside vineyard in the Lower Mosel. They inherited two hectares, but have bought adjoining plots and now own 16 of the 25 hectares which make up the Marienburg einzellage. Geology along the Mosel is complex, and the winding river provides sites with varied exposures. Clemens still vinifies and bottles each plot separately: he produces Vom Grauen Schiefer (from grey slate) and Vom Roten Schiefer (from red slate). The Rothenpfad plot is all red slate, which is unusual in the Mosel, while Farhlay is dominated by blue slate. Falkenlay, located between the two, and considered by some to be the finest site within Marienburg, is predominantly grey slate, and provides grapes for their noble sweet wines. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Charming and self-effacing, Clemens' winemaking is honest and refined, producing wines that are pure expressions of their terroir.