Domaine De Belliviere, Caligramme, 2023

Making biodynamic wines in the northernmost vineyards of the Loire requires determination, passionate commitment, and a cool temperament, as mother nature regularly brings frost, mildew, oidium, and hail but this is exactly what they do, rather well we may add. They started on the backfoot with losses of vineyards to frost and other things in the early 90's to build up to where they are now. They now have 14 hectares, scattered over 65 parcels within 6 villages. Chenin Blanc represents the vast majority of the Bellivière production. Grapes are diligently picked by hand and in the cellar, each parcel is vinified individually in barrels of various shapes and sizes, permitting Eric and his son Clément to make judicious blending choices each vintage. Fermentations are always done with native yeasts, and often they will not finish all of the grapes' sugars.