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Stephane Bernaudeau, Les Onlges, 2023

Old-vine Chenin from schist in Anjou, bottled as Vin de France. Fermented with native yeasts and aged about 12 months in old barrels, it’s tense, saline and mineral with bright orchard/citrus fruit.

  • orchard fruit
  • citrus zest
  • saline
  • mineral

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At a glance

Producer
Stéphane Bernaudeau
Region
Loire
Appellation
Vin de France
Grape
Chenin Blanc
Vintage
2023
Country
France
Wine type
White
Alcohol
11.5%
Size
75.0cl
Farming
Organic — practising Biodynamic — practising

Taste profile

Body
Medium
Acidity
High
Tannin
Low
Sweetness
Dry

What to eat with it

  • grilled white fish
  • shellfish (e.g., scallops)
  • roast chicken
  • goat’s cheese

How to serve it

Serve
Lightly chilled (12–14°C)

Why Cave selected it

Benchmark Anjou Chenin from a tiny, fastidiously farmed domaine; schist-driven precision, saline minerality and low-intervention élevage make this a sought-after, characterful white.

About the wine

Les Onglés is a brisk, mineral-driven white from a cold, schist-rich slope where frost hits nearly every other year — hence the name, a nod to frozen fingers in the vines. Made from 40–60-year-old Chenin vines, it’s aged in old barrels for a year, with full malolactic and just 40mg/l of sulphur. Expect crisp orchard fruit, subtle herbs, and a touch of white pepper. Tense, racy, and textured — best enjoyed in a carafe when young. 

Notes on the producer

Stéphane Bernaudeau grew up in the Anjou Noir, right next to the Layon, as a child he loved wandering around the river banks contemplating the fauna and flora for hours. After finishing his studies in forestry in the late 80s, he took a cash in hand job at the neighbouring Ferme de la Sansonnière, working for the newly arrived Mark Angéli.Tastings were regularly organised at the farm with pioneers like Jo Pithon, Richard Leroy, Eric Calcutt and René Mosse attending. Stéphane quickly embraced the group’s countercultural approach to wine, and what was meant to be temporary became a full-time job, he worked as Mark's right-hand man for over 10 years.Creating his domaine in 2000, though still helping at La Sansonnière for years, Stéphane followed the same path, producing wines from low-yielding (average 25hh), painstakingly tended bush vines, he insists that there is nothing he loves more than being on his own among his vines, listening, observing and feeling mother nature.

Not convinced by cabernet in the area and being a white wine lover, he simply stopped producing any reds, he currently makes three exceptional dry chenins from 3 ha and has recently bought a couple of plots in Bonnezeaux. Unfortunately, a late spring frost cut his production by three-quarters in 2016 and 2017, for that reason he resorted to buying a mobile wind turbine and strategically used it in 2019 against another severe episode, resulting in 40% loss when sadly other vignerons lost everything.

 
* Please note that because there is limited stock of this wine it is not subject to any further discount. 

About Stéphane Bernaudeau

Stéphane Bernaudeau grew up in the Anjou Noir, right next to the Layon, as a child he loved wandering around the river banks contemplating the fauna and flora for hours. After finishing his studies in forestry in the late 80s, he took a cash in hand job at the neighbouring Ferme de la Sansonnière, working for the newly arrived Mark Angéli.Tastings were regularly organised at the farm with pioneers like Jo Pithon, Richard Leroy, Eric Calcutt and René Mosse attending. Stéphane quickly embraced the group’s countercultural approach to wine, and what was meant to be temporary became a full-time job, he worked as Mark's right-hand man for over 10 years.Creating his domaine in 2000, though still helping at La Sansonnière for years, Stéphane followed the same path, producing wines from low-yielding (average 25hh), painstakingly tended bush vines, he insists that there is nothing he loves more than being on his own among his vines, listening, observing and feeling mother nature. Not convinced by cabernet in the area and being a white wine lover, he simply stopped producing any reds, he currently makes three exceptional dry chenins from 3 ha and has recently bought a couple of plots in Bonnezeaux. Unfortunately, a late spring frost cut his production by three-quarters in 2016 and 2017, for that reason he resorted to buying a mobile wind turbine and strategically used it in 2019 against another severe episode, resulting in 40% loss when sadly other vignerons lost everything.

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