Franck Peillot, Bugey Methode Traditionelle, NV

The dramatic clump of rock that is Montagnieu (one of the three crus of Bugey), where Franck Peillot’s vines are planted, is one of the area’s finest terroirs. Montagnieu is situated at the southern end of the Jura mountain chain but is nearer to Savoie than Jura. Franck took over from his father, who like most in this hard-scrabble rural region had a polyculture operation, and grew it to a still-tiny 6.5ha focused on viticulture. His scattered and various parcels in the mountainous foothills are so steep in some spots that they can only be tended with a winch and a plough, and many of the vines are trained two meters high for maximum sun exposure in this cool climate. His farming is as sustainable as possible under these challenging circumstances with parcels largely isolated, surrounded by woods and fields.