Tony Bornard, Chardogai, 2020

Big changes have occurred in the Bornard domaine over the past couple of years. Philippe has retired and his talented son Tony has taken over the operation with little fuss and with few observable differences for outsiders. Tony is a meticulous operator both in the vineyard and in the winery. He has a very clear vision about what he wants to achieve and how he is going to achieve it. The winery and many of the vineyards are in the quaint commune of Pupillin which is quite close to Arbois near the Swiss border. Tony is building a new winery in this village so that his father’s house will no longer be given over to the winemaking operations. The wines cover two appellations. The first is the broader Cotes du Jura appellation and then most of the wines are from the tiny Arbois Pupillin appellation which only applies to grapes grown in the commune of Pupillin. You will notice that in this appellation it is permitted to name the grape variety on the label – which is unusual for France. However, Tony will be gradually taking most of the wines out of these appellations in the coming years to provide him with more freedom with the winemaking.